Ramp Carnival! Spaghetti with Ramps and Ramp-Infused Olive Oil

It's that time again! All of a sudden, whispers of ramps hit Twitter and of course I could think of nothing else.  I hit the Borough Hall Farmers' Market this past weekend and found ramps at Wilklow Orchards and Rexcroft Farm (Wilklow Orchards had given the Twitterworld the heads up on Friday). 

Though I've enjoyed ramps at such local lovelies as Lunetta in Cobble Hill, I'd never cooked with them, so I bought myself one little bunch and resolved to make the Mario Batali Babbo Spaghetti with Ramps recipe that I've been holding onto since last year. 

And to add a little twist, I thought I'd preserve some of them either by pickling the bulbs or making a confit.  The pickling recipes called for loads more ramps than I wanted to invest in right away, so I went with a ramp confit recipe from The Improvisational Cook.  I've had this book around for years, but haven't done much with it.  Now I will - I definitely love the approach.  Take a basic recipe and play with it any number of different ways to get exciting new dishes. 

Because I just had my little bunch of ramps, there are not so many bulbs in my confit, but I was able to infuse about 16 ounces of extra virgin olive oil.  This seems reasonable to me since it is meant to be kept in the fridge for 2-3 weeks and not to be preserved long term.

When I had finished with the infusion, I sauteed some bread crumbs (1 slice of diced whole wheat bread) in just a bit of the infused oil, a nod to the Amateur Gourmet's recent post on bread crumbs and croutons.  I boiled up some spaghetti and sauteed the thin white/purple stems of my ramps in regular olive oil with some chili pepper flakes.  Once the spaghetti was ready, I tossed it in the skillet and added the ramp greens to wilt.  I drizzled a touch more infused oil over the pasta, cracked some black pepper and grated a touch of pecorino, finishing things off with a good sprinkle of breadcrumbs.

The result: light, spring-infused and satisfying.  Love!

Meatless Monday: Macaroni and Cheese with Butternut Squash

Back in the cold of winter, my friend Alissa of Simply Wholesome Kitchen invited me over for a cozy warm lunch with her and her adorable toddler.  She and I have a lot in common when it comes both to our food values and our love of food, period.  Therefore, it was with great interest that I tried her Macaroni and Cheese with Squash. 

She prefaced the dish by saying that it was healthy, but gave me few other details.  I have to honestly say that I did not guess that aside from the whole wheat pasta and a not-so-gooey cheese base, there was a secret healthy ingredient.  But, as you may have guessed from the title, there was - the squash. 

The recipe immediately moved to my "to-try" list and popped back up when I found myself with a craving for something cheesy and creamy, but on the healthier side.  However, instead of frozen pureed winter squash, I found myself with a late winter farmers' market butternut squash.  I figured I would give it a go.

With a fresh squash, there is no hiding the vegetable content of this dish.  Not to mention, the simplicity of throwing it together is eliminated when you have to peel, cut, seed and steam the squash before you get to the other prep.  Still, totally worth it.  If you want the easier version, I recommend heading over to Alissa's version or the Elie Krieger version she worked with originally. 

Macaroni and Cheese with Butternut Squash (adapted from Simply Wholesome Kitchen who adapted from Food Network)

• Olive oil mister or other cooking spray
• 1 pound whole wheat short pasta
• 1 medium to large butternut squash
• 2 cups lowfat milk
• 4 oz. extra-sharp Cheddar, grated, reserving 1/2 cup for topping
• 4 oz. Monterey Jack, grated
• 1 tsp sea salt
• 1 tsp powdered mustard, such as Colman's
• 1/8-1/4 tsp cayenne powder
• 4 tablespoons grated Parmesan or Pecorino, divided
• 2 tbsp plain bread crumbs (or 2 slices whole grain bread, crumbled)
• 1 tsp olive oil

1. Preheat oven to 375F. Coat a 9 by 13-inch baking pan with olive oil spray.
2. Peel, seed and cube butternut squash into approximately 1-inch pieces.  Place in skillet with water and steam until fork tender.  Mash and set aside.
3. While squash is steaming, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until al dente.  Drain and set aside.
4. Combine bread crumbs, half the pecorino and 1 tsp of olive oil in small bowl and set aside. 
5. When squash is ready, add to empty pasta pot along with the milk.  Cook at medium-low, stirring occasionally until mixture is smooth and very hot.  
6. Remove from heat and stir in the remaining pecorino, Monterey Jack and all but 1/2 cup of grated Cheddar, salt, mustard and cayenne pepper.  Add pasta and mix well. 
7. Transfer mixture to baking dish and top with cheddar and bread crumbs. Cover with foil and bake for 20 minutes.  Remove foil and broil for 3 minutes or until top is golden brown. 

Serves 6-8

Sausage and Leek Pasta, or New Experiences with Local Pork

The last couple of weeks have been intense in Forager land, with excitement happening as far away as Mexico and, of course, right here in Brooklyn.  I'm back on track on this spring day that feels like summer to tell you about a recipe that was born out of a winter day that suddenly turned into spring.  

I love spring! It offers up brief baths of sunshine in the coldest days of winter and, for a couple of weeks, plays hide and seek as well.  On one of the first beautiful spring days, I hit the Grand Army Plaza Farmers' Market to take advantage of the textile recycling and see what was on offer.

In poking around the booths, I found Bradley Farm , based in New Paltz, NY, with beautiful pork sausage on display.  I loaded up on onions for the Tigress Can Jam and got some late winter butternut squash and greens.  These seemed like the perfect ingredients for a last cold weather casserole, until spring came out from hiding in full force, screaming for something lighter - less squash, more leeks.

I went with a recipe from Lidia Bastianich using sausage, leeks and campanelle.  I've actually not made one of her recipes before and can't imagine why I never did.  The recipe was simple, flavorful and really beautiful.  I found tricolor vegetable radiatore at Trader Joe's that mimicked the campanelle just enough to catch the sauce and bits of sausage.  It also called for just a small amount of sausage which stretched a pricey and amazingly tasty product a long way. 

Sausage and Leek Pasta (adapted from Lidia Bastianich)

• 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• 2/3 lb sweet Italian sausage (casings removed), crumbled
• 2 large leeks, trimmed, light green and white parts cut into 1/2-inch pieces, washed well, and drained
• 1/2 small white onion, minced
• 2 tbsp unsalted butter
• 2 cups frozen young peas
• 1 cup homemade or low-salt chicken broth
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 1 lb. campanelle or other shaped, dried pasta
• 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Pecorino Romano, plus more for serving if you like

1. Heat large pot of salted water for the pasta.
2. In a large skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Cook the sausage, breaking up the lumps, until golden, about 5 minutes.
3. Add the leeks and cook, stirring, until soft, about 8 minutes. Stir in the onion and cook for 1 minute.
4.  Add 1 Tbs. of the butter, the peas, and the broth. Heat to a boil, reduce the heat to medium low, and simmer gently for 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, cover the skillet, and set aside; keep warm.
5. Meanwhile, cook the pasta, stirring occasionally, until al dente. Drain the pasta and return it to the pot over low heat. Add the sausage and leek sauce to the pasta and toss well. Remove the pot from the heat, add the remaining 1 Tbs. butter and the grated cheese; toss well.
6. Transfer to a warmed serving platter or individual bowls. Serve immediately, with more grated cheese on the side, if you like.

(Mostly) Meatless Monday: Spaghetti with Caramelized Cauliflower

The inspiration for this dish came from a recipe over at Serious Eats.  I'd been tossing this recipe around in my head ever since it hit my inbox (I find the Dinner Tonight section of Serious Eats to be invaluable both for inspiration and just really good recipes). The recipe is mostly meatless because it does involve a good dollop (my favorite measurement) of anchovy paste.  One could do with it.  I wouldn't.

In my special version, I warmed some olive oil, a healthy dollop (maybe 1 tbsp) of anchovy paste and a smashed garlic clove over medium to medium-high heat.  I added in some beautiful orange cauliflower, and let the anchovies and garlic get just fragrant and into a good sizzle. Add in about 1/4 cup water and cover for about 5 minutes, turning down the heat slightly. 

Once the cauliflower is tender, the magic begins.    Uncover and season with salt, pepper, and red chili flakes if you enjoy them.  Turn the heat up to medium high and let the water evaporate.  Here, you are instructed to not be afraid of the caramelization of the cauliflower.  I repeat, do not be afraid.  It is very much the key to the loveliness of this dish.

While the cauliflower finished up, I spread some panko bread crumbs on a baking sheet and mixed with sea salt and fresh cracked black pepper.  I covered in a good mist of olive oil and baked for about 5-7 minutes (I have a convection toaster oven so things like this go quickly. You might need more time). 

When the cauliflower was just about done, I added the juice of half of a lemon, toasted pine nuts, a bit more salt and pepper and hot al dente spaghetti.  I topped with bread crumbs and copious amounts of Pecorino Romano and devoured immediately.

I have to say that even though I tend to only write about recipes I enjoy, this really is maybe the best thing I've made.  Ever.  It was so satisfying and full of flavor.  I wouldn't change a thing!

Meatless Mon(Tues)day: Pecorino Ravioli with Sage Brown Butter Sauce

Sage Brown Butter Sauce, originally uploaded by Brooklyn Forager.

So, I'm a little late with my Meatless Monday post. But it was sooooo good. And such a good base recipe. I made this ravioli based on the Food & Wine recipe which called for marjoram and walnuts. Naturally, I substituted and switched for what I had in the house. So Pecorino Ravioli with Sage Brown Butter Sauce and Pignoli was born.

The recipe calls for mixing fresh grated pecorino with heavy cream, salt and pepper (I might add some spice in here next time with a little cayenne). Fill a wonton or dumpling skin. Wet the skin with water and top with another wonton or dumpling skin. Boil for two minutes or so. Voila!

In the meantime, brown butter and add the fresh herbs. Toast your nuts and chop up (or leave as I did with the pignoli). Top with sauce (not quite as much as I used) and nuts. Enjoy immensely with a glass of your favorite wine.

The cheese flavor was very intense and decadent. But for an evening date with yourself, intense and decadent is called for, especially when the recipe is so easy.